The following instructions are general guidelines on how to
assembly a MMR rolling chassis. Each chassis is slightly different,
depending on model and options, and may require variations of the assembly
instructions. If you have any questions, feel free to email us at:
STEP 1 - UNPACKING, INVENTORY AND
CLEARING A SPACE TO WORK
- Clear a space, so you have room to work
all parts from the shipping container and check for loose items in the packing
material, due to shifting that may occur while in transit
like parts together from the boxes, bags, etcetera and lay them out in an
easily accessible area
- Put the frame on a kart stand or on a raised bench, if
possible, to make assembly easier
2 - STILO SIDE POD ASSEMBLY
the Stilo bodywork assembly parts and separate them from the other chassis parts
Insert one (1) framework support bushings in each
guide hole. (NOTE: You can glue these in place with a rubber
safe epoxy or use duct-tape on the support bars at ¼” from the bushing face to
prevent the bushings from coming out on bumpy tracks.)
main support rail and insert into the frame guide holes until you feel it touch
the frame stops. Notice that the longer side is toward the front of the
Align the secondary support rail, being careful to
have the correct bend toward the front of the kart.
Insert the secondary support rail into the guide
holes of the primary support rail, until the ends are slightly past the
pre-drilled support screw holes of the primary support rail. (This should be a
1/4" to 1" past the holes to ensure rigidity of the entire assembly when
the Stilo bodywork over the rails to fine-tune alignment
and placement before continuing. This is a very important stage, so take your time and double
check before moving on to the next drilling. The underside of the support
frame assembly, should line up.
Drill a hole through the secondary support rail, using the primary
support rail holes as guides.
(NOTE: The hole should be just big enough for the bolt to slide through easily.)
This is a very
important stage, so
make sure the secondary support rail has not moved from your previous steps and
are satisfied with the bodywork placement and measurements.
Place screws through the holes, but do not tighten, this is just
for alignment and will keep the primary and secondary support rails stay together
your parts in place: two (2) easy-release support rail springs and three (3)
bodywork attachment straps
Wrap the Stilo bodywork support straps around the secondary
support bar, a couple of
in from the ends, and fold them in half to align the holes on each end
Drill a hole through the bodywork to align with the straps.
washers on the inside and outside of the Stilo bodywork to ensure the bolt hold
securely (see pictures for placement)
You can use a strap on the primary bar to secure the bodywork
and/or use the bolts that
primary and secondary support rails together to also hold the bodywork (see
pictures for placement)
You may also want to cut a small piece of the side bodywork out
to fit over the bar.
You may need to drill a spring guild hole in the outside side of the primary
support rail for the two (2) easy-release support rail
springs set in. If you are required to do this step,
make sure the primary rail is all the way inserted into the frame guide
holes and in the guide hole bushings. Then drill the
hole far enough away from the frame 'o' loop that the spring will
be under tension when attached, but not so far back that you can not attach the
spring. (This should be at least 1" past the length of the spring,
depending on the tension you desire.
the above steps for the other side
STEP 3 - STILO FRONT BUMPER BODYWORK
The front bumper bodywork assembly requires: the front bumper, a plastic guide
support piece with two (2) nut/bolts and two (2) metal clamps.
4 - STILO FRONT FAIRING BODYWORK
The front fairing assembly requires: the front fairing top and the front fairing
bottom, two steering support arms, five (5) screws for the bottom fairing
assembly, two (2) bolts and nuts for the top, 1-2 bolts for the bottom and
possibly a connector piece.
Put the plastic guide support in the middle with the nuts on the outside/font of
the guide. Do not tighten this down all the way, until you put the front bumper
between the lower and middle bumper supports.
Once the plastic bumper is in place, then squeeze down on the metal supports to
firmly clamp down on the bumper's support guides.
Tighten the plastic support guide bolts (it is fine if the guide still moves
around loose, it is used to prevent
Put one of the metal clamps on the left and one on the right of the plastic
support guide. The clamp handles should face downward. These need to
be tight enough not to come off, but not so tight that is bends the metal
clamps. (To adjust these clamps, simply spin the bottom nut to
NOTE: If the front plastic bumper gets bent/caved in/etc, simply set it in
the sun to warm the plastic and it should bend out by itself. You may need
to help it with your hands, but it will come out.
STEP 5 - SEAT PLACEMENT
Connect the bottom fairing to the underside of the top fairing with five (5)
Connect the two support bars to the steering support at the top. The bars
should be placed between the steering shaft frame support bars and the plastic
steering shaft support guide.
Line the bottom of the fairing up so that the nose is over the front bumper
support bars and aligned in the middle of the bumper.
Drill a hole on each side of the upper fairing on the sides (make sure you are
in far enough from the edge to give the plastic enough support and not easily
rip when under pressure.) Use the upper fairing support bars as guides for
the upper fairing support bars on the inside of the fairing and attach with bolt
and nut, using the plastic washer.
The bottom assembly may align up with the lower fairing. If not, you may
need to bend the support tab or use a metal extension to bolt it securely.
You can also use zip ties, but a metal nut/bolt assembly is preferred.
One of the most critical adjustment you can do for your kart is
the seat placement. Placement depends on the driver's size & weight, as
well as the type of engine you will be running. This is the one
adjustment that many drivers do not take the time to consider and perform
properly. Do it right the first time and then you don't have to worry
about it later. The seat must be level and the frame seat struts must be
aligned properly to the seat as to not apply unnecessary torque on the seat.
The chassis comes with extra seat support struts that you can
fine-tune the chassis flex. Leave the struts off for now.
Put a board or other flat object under the chassis, where the
seat will go. We want the seat to be even with the frame or slightly
set inside the frame, but not too low where it will scrape on the ground
the seat into position.
Fill in any gape that is between the frame bolt down holes to
the seat itself. It is critical not to have any gape, and/or
misalignment, because when the driver is seated the frame will
be under unnecessary torque and thus impair drivability. You can use
metal, rubber or a combination of both for the washers. (If you use a
combination of both, it is best to put the rubber washer closer to the see and
the metal washers closer to the frame, opposite of what is in the picture to
frame side mounts may need to be bent, depending on the seat size to ensure
they are lined up flush with the seat. If need be, follow the same
guidelines for the frames side seat mount by filling in the gape.
Your seat should be positioned with the front on an upward
angle and the rear leaning back toward. (see picture for angle)
Drill holes through the seat and secure with the supplied
bolts and seat washers.
NOTE: If you are using the extra seat support struts, align
the strut with a bearing support bolt at the bottom and then drill a hole in
the upper section of the seat. (see
picture for upper hole)
NOTE: These are general seat positioning instructions,
depending on the engine and driver weight, you may need to fine-tune these for
more accurate kart control.
STEP 6 - MISCELLANEOUS ASSEMBLY
Axle Hub Alignment:
axle guide chuck in holes, one (1) for each side.
Align guide groove of hub with axle guide chuck and slip
hubs over axle and a chuck.
A good starting position is to set the hubs so that 1/2" to
1" of the guide chuck protrudes from the inner side of the hub. This
should make the tires around 52" from outside rim edge to outside rim edge.
NOTE: It is critical to have the rims in the same amount on each side.
You can do this by measuring from the outside bearing frame support (not the
bolts, the frame support itself) to the inside edge of the hub.
When you decide where you want the hub place, use a tape
measure to ensure they are at the same depth on each side of the axle to
Fine-tuning of rear wheel hub placement can be performed at
the track, depending on track & weather conditions as well as driver's
Pills: The chassis comes with a fixed caster/camber pill that for most
cases should be left alone. Depending on kart options, you may have an
optional adjustable caster/camber pill that you can replace the standard fixed
Tires: Depending on your purchase options, you
may have tires included with your
chassis. Regardless, you will
eventually need to install tires on your rims. We have Windex works as a good lubricant to help the tires slide over the rim edges. It is very
important to understand the manufacturer's mark on tire rotation. Each
tire is designed to rotate in one (1) direction, so look for the arrow on the
tire's sidewall and keep this in mind when you are putting the tires on the
smart here: watch your fingers and do not over fill the tire too much.
Place the rim on a secure surface
Spray Windex on the tire's bead rim
Place the tire's inner edge over the rim's edge and work in
a clockwise, counter-clockwise rotation, while pressing down until the tire
slips over rim. (NOTE: You may
need to lubricate it several times, but
do not soak it too much where you have water collecting in the inside of the
Repeat step until you have all four (4) tires mounted.
Now you will need to 'pop' the bead to get the tire to seat
properly on the rim. This is best done with by removing the valve stem
core, but if you do not have the
proper tool, you can go to an air
compressor or a gas-station that has one try and get the tire to seat.
Again, use some Windex to moisten the bead and start filling the tire.
your fingers! And do NOT over fill.
After you have the tire bead sealed you will need to let air
out of the tires, since it requires much more pressure to seal the bead than
it does for driving. Final pressure for the tires depending on the
track and weather conditions, but cold air-pressure could start out with 14
in the rear and 12 in the front.
Chain: Depending on engine placement and sprocket
size, you may need to adjust your chain size.
To shorten a chain, you
need to pop the link caps off (a chain-breaker makes it easy, but you can use
a socket extension or screw driver, but be careful not to bend adjacent
Take out a couple of
links and then squeeze the link cap back on (again a chain-breaker makes it
easy, but a pair of needle nose pliers will also work.)
Chains need lube before each run (you can find it at a local
auto parts store)
Chain adjustment should allow the chain to move up and down about 1/2" when everything is tightened.
Fine Tuning: You should start with the extra
seat struts off to see how it handles. The front wheels should be one (1)
5mm spacer on the outside and the rear hubs should be out with 1/2" of the
axle keyway showing on the inside. This way you have a wider stance for
better traction. If you go out when it is wet or the karts "pushes"
too much in the corner (that means you really have to turn to get it around
the corner), then try moving the rear hubs in 1" on each side. This will
make the front wheel kick up the rear wheels when you corner, thus producing
a tighter turn. NOTE: A slight push into a corner is fine, it will
make you faster in the end.
STEP 5 - SAFETY INSPECTION
Always check bolts, nuts, etc. before each time you go out on
the track. Use nylon lock nuts and/or double nut every bolt and safety
wire or c-clip each bolt to ensure pieces do not come off during operation.
If you are unsure, ask someone at the track to inspect your kart.